DUNG BALLS AND GOLD BARS

Smelling Dung and finding gold... an excursion into the forest along South Africa´s famous Garden Route

I could smell the dung as I rolled down my window, and gave the guard at the boom my entrance money. The guard must have known what I was referring to, as I inhaled once more just to make sure that I actually smelled what I thought I smelled. ”Yes, it is elephant dung madam, and they went past here last night”.

This is almost too authentic for me, and I roll up my window to pass through the boom, take my look around, write the story, and get the heck out of here.

This is big foot territory, and I kind of feel I’ve only been allowed a temporary pass.

Millwood Creek Mine is set in the heart of the forest at Rheenendal – about 5km’s West of Knysna.  I only got to hear about it when I was listening to my breakfast and watching the passing traffic. (Actually more accurately I was looking very intently out the window, with my ear cocked to a bowl of muesli while listening to the table next door, and what they were planning to do on their off Saturday while in the area).

To be honest, I’d never heard of gold in this area, and honestly can’t comprehend how miners from that time managed to haul their machinery through the dense forest, with the prospect of snakes, crawlies and no tabard lotion.

According to my information brochure, gold was discovered in 1870 in the Karatara River, and, like a temporary tattoo (you experience what all the hype is about, with no long term commitment) the miners didn’t stick around long enough the see the beginning of the next century. A more reliable source of gold was discovered on the Witwatersrand and they moved on leaving behind a ghost village.

The discovery of potential wealth in the area meant an influx of prospectors keen to cash in.  The optimists moved in, hacked back the vegetation and constructed ugly little make shift shacks.  They also made sluice boxes and weirs to wash the gravel as they worked their fingers to find the shiny currency.

I can quite picture how hard it must have been to live here – no convenience store for a quick refill of milk, bread or the Sunday paper, the closest supply store was a bundu bashing trek through the forest, along the Seven Passes Route, from Millwood to Knysna.

Driving up the high mountain pass today in our all terrain vehicle, I’m suddenly much more appreciative of pneumatic tyres, air cushioned seats and aircon – which can really give a whole new appreciation to the outdoor experience.  How these people managed to haul their equipment up the pass, while trying to coax a span of oxen and negotiate their release from plants that grab hold and tear your skin, gives me (the backseat driver) quite a squirmish feeling).

After walking around the various mine trails, and seeing the encamped equipment area, it’s time for a cup of tea. We move along to the coffee shop called The Moterolli Tea Garden – looking around skeptically at what we might be served here.  There are old ploughing implements strewn all over the garden, in amongst the tables, and the lawn is growing around the wheels of something that I’m later told is a harvester. 

The owner, who lives and works on the premises, must be starved for conversation, as he moves from table to table, taking orders for his chocolate cake (Self made, and really divine), and tells anyone who is interested a bit about the history of the area and shows the small museum room found adjacent to the café.

History still seems to be alive here, and the if the enthusiasm of the local parks board isn’t proof enough, the fresh elephant dung sure should convince you.

Suzanne’s short profile:

Time travel still seems possible when you return to visit family in small town living. Growing up in the dust and draught of the Klein Karoo, and returning there after 10 years away, I suddenly appreciate the winter rains of Cape Town, and the water stored in massive dams on the outskirts of the city.

When I’m not out enjoying nature and the fresh air, I love doing armchair travels, and spending time with people who have been to places I haven’t.